STEP 1: Disconnect The Water Line from The Toilet and Empty All Water From Toilet
A. Remove the toilet tank lid.
B. Turn the toilet tank water valve to the closed position.
C. Flush a few times to empty as much water from the toilet and tank as possible and to ensure that the water inlet valve has been properly closed.
D. Remove any remaining water in the tank and toilet bowl with a sponge, container or a wet/dry vac.
E. Disconnect the water hose from the toilet tank and wall valve.
STEP 2: Disassemble Toilet from Floor
A. Remove the trim caps that cover the closet bolts. Closet bolts secure the toilet to the floor and are located on the base of the toilet. Remove the nuts from the closet bolts.
B. Lay newspaper or plastic on the floor to place the toilet and tank on.
C. Remove the toilet from its mount and place it on the newspaper. To make handling of the toilet easier, you may wish to remove the toilet tank. Disassemble the tank from the toilet base by removing the fasteners located in the bottom of the toilet tank. Remove the entire toilet tank and toilet assembly from the closet flange and place the assembly on the newspaper.
If you have difficulty removing the toilet, you may have to break the seal to the closet flange by rocking the toilet from side to side.
D. Remove old wax or foam seal from the closet flange and toilet underside.
It is a good idea to temporarily block the open pipe so as to not drop anything in the opening.
STEP 3: Locate the Proper Spacer Adjustment Holes
A. Place the spacer flat on the floor so the lettering is showing. Note that there are 6 pairs of numbered holes. One end is labeled A and the other end is labeled B.
B. Find the adjustment position by placing the toilet on top of the spacer. To correctly find the adjustment position, the closet bolt holes of the toilet (those holes on either side of the soil pipe opening if the toilet has more than one set of bolt holes) should line up with one of the six sets of numbered holes on the spacer.
C. Choose a set of holes that allow the front edge of the toilet base to come up as close as possible to the end of the spacer without overhanging while completely covering up the spacer top surface detail.
PLEASE NOTE: The spacer is reversible. Either end can go forward.
D. Note the number of the correct spacer hole and whether the A end or the B end is closest to the wall. (Example: 3A - toward the wall)
STEP 4: Install the Spacer and Soil Pipe Extension
A. Remove the old closet bolts by sliding them out of the slots of the floor flange.
B. Replace the new longer closet bolts that were supplied with the kit in the closet flange bolt receptacles.
C. Place the spacer on the floor, over the closet flange, with the closet bolts through the correct spacer holes and the spacer in the correct orientation. Unwrap one foam seal (supplied with the kit) and push it into place over the bottom end of the pipe fitting.
D. Place the pipe fitting with the foam ring seal into position in the closet flange by placing the pipe fitting over the closet bolts. The word "UP" on the pipe should face up. Push down until the foam* seal is seated firmly in the closet flange and the pipe is resting on top of the spacer.
*Foam ring seals are a new improved technology to replace wax seals. Foam seals allow a margin of error in the placement and removal of the toilet should a misalignment occur. If you prefer to use wax seals, you can obtain two from your local hardware store.
E. Place round washer supplied with the kit over each closet bolt and screw on one nut over each closet bolt. Tighten nut down to hold the spacer in position. Do not over-tighten. Finally check the alignment.
STEP 5: Re-install the Toilet onto the Spacer
A. Unpack the 2nd foam ring, supplied with the kit, and put on the underside of the toilet. Push the foam ring around the soil pipe opening until it rests on the porcelain.
B. Lower the toilet onto the spacer with the closet bolts coming through the bolt holes. Use two people if necessary. Push the toilet down firmly to set the foam seal. Make sure that the toilet and spacer are fairly perpendicular to the wall. Adjust the rotation as necessary.
C. Place a plastic washer, supplied with the kit, over each closet bolt. Place the other flat washers, supplied with the kit, over the closet bolts and on top of the plastic washers. Fasten the second set of nuts over the closet bolts until tight. NOTE: Be careful not to over tighten the fasteners since over tightening may cause the porcelain to break.
D. Install the trim caps supplied with the kit over the nut assembly and snap into place over the plastic washer.
E. Re-assemble the toilet tank to the back of the toilet if necessary.
STEP 6: Reconnect the Water Supply to the Toilet Tank
A. If your original cold water line is still long enough to reach your toilet tank, you may reuse it. Otherwise, use the longer water hose supplied with the kit. If you cannot reuse your previous water inlet connection or the supplied water hose, check at your hardware store for the correct water line fixture.
PLEASE NOTE: The supplied water connection hose is for use on compression outlet valves only. Do not use the supplied water line on iron pipe stub outs, slip joint valves or flare outlet valves. The supplied water connection hose is intended for normal household water pressure up to 100 psi. If your system uses more than 100 psi., attach a higher pressure hose.
B. Turn the water inlet valve to the open position, counter clockwise. With the water valve open, the toilet tank should fill with water and the toilet should be ready to flush. Try flushing a few times before use.
If the water hose connections are leaking, tighten the connections.
C. Replace the toilet tank lid.
D. If desired, a bead of silicone sealant can be applied between the spacer and the toilet as well as between the spacer and the floor.